After seeing a post on Apartment Therapy (Casie is still giggling about that one), Michele wrote to ask some more specifics about the construction of the wall and how the paneling works with the shelf standards. Here goes:
When installing the wall, we created a flush surface by blocking out the wall (we ended up going all the way to the floor and ceiling in the end). We could have simply put a layer of plywood over the studs, but believe it or not, we couldn't afford the extra 3/4in depth as we didn't want the desk to hang out past the sliding door frame to it's left. In most cases, 3/4in plywood could be mounted directly to the studs rather than inset -- I'd be afraid 1/2in plywood would not be thick enough to prevent screw pull-out on the standards once weighted with shelves, books, etc.
Anyway, after creating a solid/sturdy mounting surface (which we needed as the shelf standards would not be mounted directly to studs because of spacing -- and after 40 years the studs are not square anyway), we cut 21in strips of 3/8in sheetrock (avoiding the beveled side) and 1/4in paneling -- the 21in measurement came from the length of the wall divided by the number of standards (we wanted even spacing along the wall).
The Rakks brackets have a 5/8in backspacing (for 5/8in drywall), so the doubled-up drywall and paneling was the perfect thickness (see image below). The brackets also have about 1/8in slop on either side, too... just in case. After some (very) careful measurements, we secured the drywall to the plywood blocking with screws as you normally would.
We inlaid the paneling on top of the drywall with only a few brad nails at the very top to allow for expansion then simply laid the shelf standards over the pre-measured gap and screwed them to the blocking that was revealed by the gap we allowed. The flanges of the standards holds the paneling to the drywall (you could also use a few dabs of construction adhesive to bond the paneling to the drywall -- but for us, shifting is not a problem as the panels go floor to ceiling and wall to wall, so they're tight).
All in all, a very easy project effort-wise, but a bit of a brain-twister to plan out. It was a bit tough to cut 10-foot stock (the height of the wall) -- for which i had to make a cutting jig/template to floor-cut the straight cuts with my skillsaw (as I didn't trust feeding such a long piece through the table-saw)... a true panel-saw would have been nice here. Hopefully these go-bys help folks. If you have more questions, please feel free to email.